Surat

Surat: Plan of the Old English Cemetery

Surat Old Dutch and Old English Cemetery
The structure of the Old English and Old Dutch cemeteries in Surat is dominated by the largest monuments of Europeans we have found all over India. These graves are also some of the oldest tombs which have survived from the earliest times of British and Dutch activities at Surat.
The English traders settled in Surat in 1608 followed by the Dutch in 1617. French and also Swedes - even for just a short period - commenced trading-enterprises here. However, it seems that there are no re-mainders of their burial cul-ture left today.
Along with the Dutch also Armenian traders left a quite big cemetery in Surat. Both nations share the same burial ground only separated by a wall.

Surat: Grave of Christophorus & George
Oxenden (Old English Cemetery)

Old English Cemetery
Map: (click here for bigger version)
The map shows a linear structure for the Old English Cemetery. Also the big monuments were erected within one line, even if this does not mean that this structure represents a chronological order. Instead, there seems to be some kind of architectural structure within the topography of the cemetery: The tombs 5 to 11 are all of the same architecture and type of construction as well as the tombs of number 43 to 51 and also the monuments number 23 to 25.
Tomb - Architecture and Form:
In Surat, the traditional styles of European and especially English sepulchral monuments are partly combined with Islamic ornaments and reliefs. This combination of two different architectural styles seems to resemble the particular position of Surat as an important emporium for the Asian trading world. Although the structure of this cemetery gains this character mainly by the more common rectangular monuments like sarcophagus (Tumba), the more impressive and notable monuments are the pavilions and mausoleums. We found twelve pavilions on the English burial ground and the most pompous is the one of Christopher and George Oxenden. (above right) George Oxenden was the English President of Surat since 1662 and died in 1669. Bellasis mentions that the original tomb was erected in 1659 for his brother. The style of the monument represents the power and wealth of the Oxendens in the City of Surat as political leaders and important traders, as mentioned in the inscription. But the more interesting fact regarding the form of the monument is the influence of Indian and Arabic Art. Especially the construction of the pinnacles as minarets and the pointing arch of the windows resemble a semi-Islamic style. The domed copulas at the peak of each of the four pillars and the low reliefs on each side above every door-way support the impression of this style. The other eleven monuments mentioned likewise show Islamic features in architecture and ornament. The open cross copula, the window style and the minaret-like peak on top of the pillars is copied at another grave with no inscription.

Old Dutch Cemetery
Map: (click here for bigger version)
There is no typical structure of this burial ground. In contrast to the English cemetery at Surat and most of the other European burial sites in India, this burial ground is dominated by huge pavilions and monuments
Tomb - Architecture and Form:
Again, destructions caused by climate and also by alterations of the mausoleums are responsible for the loss of most of the inscriptions. Only six inscriptions remain. Three of them are situated in the tomb of "Baron Adriaan van Reede". This monument is the largest of all monuments we have found in India. (below left) This baroque monument only shows few connections to the Arabian art. The building consists of a double copula with an upper and lower gallery. The galleries and copula are supported by decorated columns. However, there is no clear style to identify. The plinth of the columns resemble Doric style, even if the torus in the middle of the columns is not typical for this style. We likewise find adoptions of a classical tholos with columns, stairs and the cella in the interior. The decoration with wood carvings, frescoes and escutcheons which were originally inside and outside the monument, support the impression that this pavilion was built in remembrance of an important, higher ranking person, don't exist anymore. Bellasis mentions that later about 6000 Rupees were spent by the Dutch VOC for repairing works. The whole arrangement emphasizes the social status of the Baron in this particular case.